How To Speed up an Electric Scooter

Manufacturers usually advertise the maximum speed the scooter can hit (often with a bit of optimism), so there’s rarely “hidden” performance waiting to be unlocked. In other words, don’t expect a miracle where a $300 commuter scooter suddenly does 30 mph with a quick hack. Some scooters are naturally slow because their motor, battery, and controller hardware limit what they can do, and manufacturers already tune them to run as fast as they safely can.

Once you accept that dramatic speed boosts aren’t realistic for most scooters, there might still be a few tweaks to squeeze out a bit more performance. I’ll walk you through everything from quick wins (like pumping up your tires) to advanced mods (like swapping controllers or batteries).

Just remember that big gains (like adding 10+ mph) require major hardware changes, and pushing a scooter with a weak frame, tiny brakes, or small tires can be dangerous. In many cases, it’s genuinely easier and safer to buy a faster scooter built for higher performance.

Before You Begin

Do a quick search for your specific scooter model. Check forums or the manufacturer’s manual to see if your model has a known speed limiter that can be removed. A few scooters (mostly European versions) come electronically limited to 15 mph (24.14 km/h) for legal reasons and can be unlocked to their full potential.

For example, some Xiaomi and Segway/Ninebot models have firmware hacks that raise the max speed from 15 mph to about 19 mph.

But most modern scooters do not have an easy limiter wire or secret code you can toggle. The era of simply cutting a “speed wire” is almost over, as manufacturers have stopped using obvious limiter cables on most of the new models.

If your scooter isn’t explicitly marketed as a “limited” version, it’s probably already running as fast as its design allows.

It might just be performing exactly how a 300W motor on 36V is supposed to perform (15–18 mph with no limiter). In that case, you’ll have to modify hardware for significant improvements (we’ll get to that). With expectations set and the stock performance baseline understood, you can move on to adjustments that actually improve real-world speed.

Alright, let’s start with the easy stuff first.

Low-Risk Changes That Can Increase the Speed of Your Electric Scooter

Before busting out the soldering iron or ordering new parts, maximize the basics.

Pump Up Your Tires

Underinflated tires kill your speed more than almost anything else. They create massive rolling resistance, making it feel like you’re riding with the brakes on.

Inflate your tires to the upper end of the recommended PSI range (check your sidewall or manual). Higher pressure means a smaller contact patch with the road, which translates to less drag(but less grip, so be cautious). In fact, maxing out tire pressure can improve speed efficiency by up to 15–20%.

I run my tires 3–5 PSI above the manufacturer’s recommendation. Yes, the ride gets a bit harsher, but the speed improvement is noticeable, and you can maintain higher speeds for longer periods. Just don’t exceed the maximum PSI and weight printed on the tire sidewall.

Check Your Riding Mode

It sounds obvious, but make sure you’re in the fastest mode your scooter offers.

Many scooters have Eco (Mode 1), Standard (Mode 2), and Sport (Mode 3) modes. Eco saves battery by capping speed (sometimes way low, like 10 mph), Standard is moderate, and Sport (or “Mode 3”) unleashes full power.

Switch to Sport mode by double- or triple-clicking the power or mode button. On some models, you’ll need to go into the P-settings through the display.

For example, common scooter LCDs (like the QS-S4 display) have parameters like P8 (power level) and P12 (acceleration), P3 (scooter voltage), which should be at 100% for full performance.

Sometimes a display can reset to default and limit your power without you realizing. So, dig into your manual or do a quick Google search for “[Your Scooter] P-settings” to make sure nothing is electronically holding you back.

Spin the Wheels Freely (Friction Check)

Lift your electric scooter’s wheels off the ground (prop the scooter on a sturdy chair or use a scooter stand) and spin each wheel by hand. They should turn freely with minimal resistance.

If a wheel barely makes a rotation or you hear scraping sounds, you’ve found a speed killer. A slightly bent disc brake rotor can rub on the brake pads each revolution, acting like a constant brake. That will absolutely sap your top speed and range. If you hear rubbing, try gently realigning the brake caliper or truing the rotor.

Also, check the wheel bearings. If the wheels don’t spin freely for at least 5–10 seconds, your bearings need attention. Clean them with degreaser and add fresh bearing oil. Don’t over-lubricate things that can gum up. Too much grease can actually create drag or collect dirt,

If they’re shot, replacement bearings cost $10–20 and make a huge difference.

Reduce Weight and Wind Resistance

Remove any unnecessary cargo you’ve got strapped on. Extra weight makes the motor work harder, especially on inclines, and can slow acceleration.

You can’t change your own body weight easily, but if you carry a heavy backpack, try to place it low on the deck or in a bag on the scooter hook (if safe) rather than on your back. Lowering the center of gravity can help stability when going faster.

Rider posture also matters once you’re above 15 mph (24 km/h) because you’ll start fighting wind resistance. I sometimes crouch down slightly or tuck in my elbows when trying to hit top speed on a straight. It might look funny, but making yourself more aerodynamic can add another 1–2 mph (1.6 – 3.2 km/h) to your speed.

Charge Up (Battery Voltage)

Make sure you’re testing your speed or riding with a fairly full battery. Electric scooters tend to run fastest right after a charge. As the battery drains, the voltage drops, and the top speed can dip slightly.

A half-empty battery might give you 5% less top speed than a full one, sometimes more on certain models. And if you have an older battery that’s weak with voltage sag, a new battery of the same spec could restore lost speed. This isn’t a permanent speed increase, but it ensures you’re evaluating the scooter under ideal conditions before assuming the hardware is the problem.

Cheap Tweaks and Maintenance for a Faster Ride

Moving beyond pure freebies, here are some low-cost tweaks and maintenance tasks that can incrementally improve speed or acceleration. These require a bit more effort or minor purchases to optimize the electric scooter setup.

Tire Type and Size

Take a look at your tires. Are they knobby off-road style or smooth street tires? Off-road tires have higher rolling resistance on pavement and are often heavier. Simply switching to smoother, road-oriented tires can reduce friction and boost your speed.

Additionally, consider tire diameter. A larger tire (if your scooter frame can accommodate it) will effectively increase your gearing, giving you more speed per motor rotation. For example, going from an 8.5-inch tire to a 10-inch tire can add a couple of mph because the scooter travels farther with each wheel turn. Larger tires also maintain speed better over bumps and rough patches, so you’ll slow down less.

However, there are downsides. Steering can feel a touch slower, and bigger tires are heavier with higher rotational inertia, so you might lose some acceleration off the line. Your speedometer will also read lower than your actual speed since it’s calibrated for the original wheel size, though some scooters let you adjust this in the settings menu.

Before upgrading, check fork, fender, and deck clearance to make sure cables and mudguards won’t rub at full compression.

Firmware and App Tweaks (Within Manufacturer Limits)

Some scooters (especially higher-end ones) allow performance tuning via their smartphone app or console. Check if yours has settings for things like acceleration strength, electronic brake strength, or launch mode.

For instance, certain models let you choose a gentler acceleration curve (to save battery or prevent wheelspin). If you want max performance, set that to the most aggressive option.

Similarly, strong regenerative braking can sometimes create drag when you release the throttle. If your app allows, lower regen slightly so the scooter coasts more freely. This can help maintain speed, especially down slight hills or when approaching top speed.

Also, check for firmware updates from the manufacturer. Rarely, a manufacturer will improve performance; sometimes updates restrict things, so read notes first.

Cooling Tricks To Prevent Power Loss

This addresses indirect speed loss. Many scooters will thermally throttle (reduce power) if the motor or controller gets too hot. This usually happens on long uphill climbs or aggressive riding, especially in hot weather. The result is that your scooter, which was doing 25 mph (40 km/h), might suddenly only do 15–18 mph (24–29 km/h) because it’s protecting itself from overheating.

If you ride in a hot climate or push the scooter hard, a few cooling modifications can help it sustain peak performance longer. A popular mod in the community is adding small heatsinks to the motor or controller casing.

For example, riders of the Xiaomi M365 and similar scooters often glue small aluminum heatsinks to the outside of the hub motor using thermal adhesive. Heatsinks are cheap on sites like AliExpress (you can get a bunch for a few dollars). Just make sure they won’t interfere with any moving parts and are securely attached.

Source: Amazon

It looks a bit cyborg, but it can drop motor temperatures by up to 15°C (27°F) in use. Cooler motor = less thermal throttling. You can also add a thermal pad between the controller and the frame so the frame acts as a heat spreader. I’ve seen mods with small fans or repositioned controllers for better airflow. These “cooling” mods won’t make you faster at first, but they prevent the scooter from slowing itself down due to heat.

If your scooter uses a direct drive hub motor, you can add a small amount of high‑quality ferrofluid inside the hub to move heat from the stator to the shell more efficiently. Start with 3–5 mL, then re‑test before adding more. Too much adds drag without extra cooling. Use motor‑grade fluid only, not novelty ferrofluid, and keep it off the brake rotor and pads. Ferrofluid works best when paired with external heatsinks so the shell can shed the extra heat you’ve moved into it.

Keep in mind that opening vents or adding fans can compromise water resistance, which isn’t ideal if you ride in wet conditions. Balance cooling improvements with maintaining whatever weather protection your scooter originally had.

At this stage, we’ve addressed tires, friction, basic settings, and even cooling. These things might collectively give you a modest boost; maybe your scooter feels 10–15% peppier and can reach its stock top speed more easily. But to exceed the fundamental top speed that the scooter was built for, you’re looking at hardware changes.

Upgrades for Significant Speed (High Risk, High Reward)

The methods below can significantly increase your scooter’s speed and power, but they come with costs, effort, and risks. I’ll break down the major upgrades and what to expect from each. These are based on a mix of personal experience and what I’ve seen others do in the community. Proceed only if you’re comfortable with DIY electronics and understand the risks.

1. Upgrade the Controller (ESC)

The controller is the scooter’s brain and muscle, governing how much current goes to the motor. Many scooters come with a conservative controller that limits the current (amps) to protect the motor and battery, and sometimes it even limits top speed (by firmware). Replacing or upgrading the controller can remove these shackles.

What It Does

A more robust controller can allow higher current flow, meaning stronger acceleration and better hill climbing. If your stock controller was, say, 15 A, upgrading to a 25 A or 30 A controller could give a night-and-day difference in low-end punch. It may also unlock a bit more top speed if the original controller was artificially capping it.

Some budget scooters have built-in speed caps in the controller’s programming (especially if they sell the same model in 15 mph (24 km/h) and 20 mph (32 km/h) versions, often it’s just a software difference). A new aftermarket controller often has no such restriction. It will simply feed power until the motor hits its natural maximum RPM.

How To Do It

There are generic scooter controller kits readily available (places like Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.). These kits usually include the controller module and a matching display/throttle unit. That’s important, as many stock displays won’t communicate with a random controller.

You choose one that matches your battery voltage (important!) and a suitable current rating. For example, if you have a 36 V scooter with a 350 W motor, you might choose a 36 V 25 A controller (which can deliver around 900 W, significantly more than the stock 350 W). However, also make sure your motor can handle the increased power. A 350 W motor getting 900 W continuously might overheat or suffer premature wear. You’re asking it to work nearly three times harder than it was designed for.

Challenges

You need to match the controller to your motor in terms of phase wires and hall sensor compatibility. Space is another issue. The new controller might be larger and not fit in the deck, meaning you may need to mount it externally.

Wiring can be confusing for first-timers, so buying a matched scooter-specific kit is usually the smoothest option.

Risk

This will void your warranty and can potentially harm your battery if done wrong. A controller that draws more current than your battery can safely provide may damage the BMS or cause dangerous overheating.

If you significantly increase controller current, you should assume you’ll also need to upgrade the battery—or at least verify that its BMS can handle the new load.

2. “Shunt Mod” Your Existing Controller (Cheap but Risky)

This mod is popular in DIY circles because it’s cheap and works, but it’s also risky and crude. It increases the controller’s current output by altering the shunt resistor so the controller under-reads current flow.

What It Does

The controller measures the tiny voltage across the shunt to infer current. If you add a bit of solder or a parallel conductor, you reduce resistance so the controller allows more current. This boosts torque and acceleration – not top speed. Think of it as tricking the controller into working harder than it was ever designed to.

How To Do It

Open the controller, locate the shunt resistor, and apply a small amount of solder. You should increase conductivity gradually, checking results after each test.

Be careful – overdoing it can eliminate current limiting entirely and fry components.

Risks

Out of all mods, this one is known to be risky and often not worth it unless you’re just having fun experimenting. The controller may overheat, MOSFETs may fail, and wires may melt if not rated for increased current.

You should add cooling (heatsinks or thermal pads) if you perform a shunt mod.

Realistically, a proper controller upgrade is safer and more reliable than modifying a stock one beyond its limits.

3. Higher Voltage Battery (and More Battery in General)

Voltage is the main lever for raw top speed when your motor and controller can use it. For example, a 36 V scooter upgraded to 48 V can gain 20–32% more top speed under the right conditions. Up to 60 V or more, and you’re entering the range of  40–50 mph (64–80 km/h) scooters.

Swap Battery

Simply putting a same-voltage battery of higher capacity will not make the scooter faster; it’ll just go farther. To increase speed, you need to increase voltage. This often means replacing the battery pack with a higher-voltage pack and also replacing the controller to match that voltage. For instance, upgrading a Ninebot Max (36 V nominal, 42 V peak) to a 48 V pack (54.6 V peak) and using a 48 V controller can push its top speed higher.

Add Battery (Parallel vs. Series)

There are two ways to add batteries: in parallel (increases capacity, i.e., more Ah) or in series (increases voltage).

You’re usually better off just buying a new battery at the voltage you need rather than dealing with all the additional connections and complexity of wiring multiple batteries together.

Parallel

People do this to get more range or reduce voltage sag. For example, adding a second identical 36 V battery in parallel will keep it 36 V, but you’ll have double the Ah.

Your flat-ground top speed won’t increase since the motor still spins the same speed at 36 V. However, you’ll notice the scooter maintains its power much better as the batteries drain, and you’ll get way more range. Plus, since the power draw splits between two batteries, each one works less hard and is less likely to cut out under heavy load.

However, wiring batteries in parallel requires careful attention. You need matching batteries (same chemistry, same cell count, similar age). Before connecting them, charge both to the same voltage, ideally within 0.05 to 0.10 V of each other. Think of it like connecting two water tanks – if one’s much fuller than the other, you get a big rush when you connect them.

Use proper high-current connectors and a way to limit that initial rush of current, like anti-spark connectors or a small resistor.

Keep each battery on its own BMS. Tie the packs together only at the main output leads and add an inline fuse on each pack lead for fault isolation.

What you should expect:

• Higher top speed
• More available power
• Potentially shorter range if you ride faster
• Increased heat and wear on components

Series (Higher Voltage)

Adding packs in series raises the total system voltage and can boost speed. Adding battery packs in series raises the total voltage, for example, adding a 36 V battery pack in series with a 36 V scooter battery to make it 72 V total.

Brushless hub motor speed scales with voltage, so a higher pack voltage raises the motor’s no-load rpm. On flat ground, top speed increases if the controller accepts the new voltage and the motor can still make enough torque to overcome drag at that speed.

Wiring needs care as well. Every component in your scooter has a maximum voltage it can handle before it fries. Your controller, motor, display, lights, and everything else must be rated for the new higher voltage.

Your charging setup also gets more complicated. You need a charger that matches the total voltage (like a 72 V charger for our example), or you have to disconnect the batteries and charge them separately every time. Never try to charge just part of a series string with the wrong charger.

You also need to keep an eye on individual battery voltages so the weakest pack does not over-discharge before the others.

What you should expect:

• Higher top speed if your scooter was previously hitting its motor’s speed limit
• More power available at any throttle position
• Shorter range if you cruise faster, since energy per mile rises with speed. Range can improve at the same old cruising speed only if you also add watt-hours.

Motor and Controller Considerations

When increasing voltage, remember that the motor’s RPM will increase proportionally to the voltage (motor speed constant Kv * voltage = RPM). Many motors can tolerate some overvoltage, especially if cooled, but they will run hotter.

A small step is about 10 % (for example, 48 to 52 V). A moderate step is about 10–20 % (52 to 60 V). A large step is about 30 % or more (36 to 48 V). The bigger the jump, the more you need to worry about heat and whether your other components can handle it.

For really large voltage increases, you might need to upgrade to a physically larger motor or one specifically designed for higher power output, since the original motor may not be able to handle the increased heat and stress.

For controllers, compare fully charged pack voltages to the controller ratings. 36 V packs charge to 42.0 V, 48 V to 54.6 V, 52 V to 58.8 V, 60 V to 67.2 V, 72 V to 84.0 V. Your controller and all its internal components need to be rated above these peak voltages, not just the nominal ones.

So stick to changes you can support both thermally and electrically.

Frame and Space

Higher voltage packs often mean more cells, which means a physically larger battery.

Check if you have room in the deck or wherever the battery is housed. For instance, the Ninebot Max has a pretty large battery compartment, and people have fit 48V packs in there.

But a slim commuter, like Xiaomi M365, has very tight space, going 48V usually requires a custom battery shape or strapping an external pack onto the stem.

More speed also might mean you need better brakes and possibly a sturdier stem. Make sure the scooter’s overall build can handle the boost.

Cost and Effort

Batteries are expensive. A higher voltage battery with quality cells (like a 48V 15Ah pack) can cost around $200, and that’s for one of the cheapest generic options available.

Plus, the battery and controller usually need to be upgraded together. Your original 36V controller won’t magically work on 48V unless it’s truly universal with components rated for higher voltage, which most aren’t. And if everything’s integrated, your display and throttle might need replacing too.

4. Higher Power/Speed Motor

Swapping the motor itself is another route. If your scooter has a small motor (say 250W or 350W), upgrading to a physically larger motor or one with higher winding speed (Kv) can raise performance. However, just like the other mods, you’ll need to adjust the other components as well (battery and controller).

Why Consider a Motor Swap

If your original motor was really underpowered and gets scorching hot with any extra load, a bigger motor can take the extra current from a new controller without burning up. This means you can sustain higher speeds for longer or climb hills faster without thermal throttling.

For top speed increases, you’d want a motor rated for higher RPM at your voltage. For example, many 250W hub motors in budget scooters are designed to max out around 15 mph (24 km/h) on 36V. If you replace it with a 500W hub motor from a performance scooter, that motor might have a higher top speed on the same voltage, or it might simply allow much more current for acceleration, depending on the motor’s specs.

Here’s the key point. A more powerful motor won’t inherently spin faster on the same voltage unless it’s wound to do so. Each motor has a Kv rating (RPM per volt). If you get a motor with a higher Kv, then on the same voltage, it will have a higher no-load speed and thus higher potential top speed, though with less torque per volt. So motor swapping alone usually isn’t the first thing to do for speed. It’s typically done after or alongside a controller/battery upgrade to utilize it fully.

Fitment issues

By far, the hardest part of motor swapping is mechanical. Hub motors need the correct dropout spacing, axle diameter, brake rotor alignment, and wheel size compatibility.

Complete Kit Upgrades

A practical approach for many is to replace the entire system. You can buy a “conversion kit” meant for DIY e-bikes/e-scooters that includes a motor, controller, throttle, etc. Essentially, you end up replacing the battery, controller, and motor in one go. At that point, you’ve basically built a new scooter inside the shell of your old one.

In my opinion, this simply doesn’t make sense unless there’s something you particularly love about that scooter frame. It’s way cheaper and easier to just buy a scooter that already meets your speed needs rather than gutting your current one completely.

Speed Upgrade Options: Cost vs. Gain Summary

The table below gives you a quick way to compare common speed upgrades, from simple tweaks to extreme modifications. It shows rough estimates for cost, time, skill required, and what you can realistically expect in return. These are ballpark figures, so your actual results may vary depending on your scooter, riding conditions, and starting setup.

The expected gains assume your scooter wasn’t already fully optimized, and the improvements don’t stack perfectly – once you remove the biggest bottlenecks, later mods usually deliver smaller returns.

(Costs and time are rough averages – they can vary widely by scooter model and your sources for parts)

Model-Specific Notes and Tips

Let’s talk about a few popular scooter models and families, and what’s commonly done (or not done) to make them faster. I’ll cover some well-known ones:

Xiaomi M365, M365 Pro, 1S, Pro2 (Xiaomi lineup)

These are the poster children of scooter modding. The original M365 had a huge community that developed custom firmware (CFW) to increase its speed and power. With apps like m365 DownG, XiaoFlasher, or ScooterHacking, you can flash firmware that raises the current limit and removes the 15.5 mph (25 km/h) cap, typically yielding about 19–20 mph (30–32 km/h) on flat ground. The M365 Pro has a bigger battery and can also hit 20 mph (32 km/h) with firmware tweaks.

Keep in mind that pushing an M365 to 18.6 mph (30 km/h) can overheat the motor if you do it for extended periods. The motor is 250W nominal, and you’d be running it at 500+ W continuously with these hacks. Many people add cooling modifications like stick-on heatsinks on the motor and even upgrade to the Xiaomi Pro’s motor or other 350W motors that fit in the wheel.

Segway/Ninebot (ES2/ES4, Max G30, etc.)

The Ninebot ES2 and ES4 (especially models with the external battery) were also commonly tweaked via firmware. You could flash the “American” firmware to an ES2 to remove the 15.5 mph (25 km/h) cap, and it would go 18.6 mph (30 km/h). With the external battery, it basically became an ES4.

There’s also the Ninebot Max G30 (Segway Max). It’s a 36V, 350–700W scooter that does 18.6 mph (30 km/h) out of the box in the US version, 15.5 mph (25 km/h) in the EU version. The Max can be firmware-hacked to unlock a bit more speed. Many users have gotten it to 20–22 mph (32–35 km/h) on flat ground by raising the motor voltage limit slightly and removing the region lock.

Apollo City / Apollo Phantom / Other Apollo models

Apollo scooters often come with an app that allows tuning. For example, the Apollo Phantom has configurable acceleration strength (0 to 100% settings) and regenerative brake strength via the display or app. So you can max those out for best performance.

If you own an Apollo, check their official forums or FB groups; the company is mod-friendly to an extent. But anything beyond app settings will likely void warranty, and since Apollos are not cheap, fewer people tinker with them in ways that could brick them.

Dualtron / Kaabo / High-Performance Scooters

If you own a Dualtron (Mini, Thunder, Ultra, etc.) or a Kaabo Wolf/Mantis, your scooter is already built for performance. The common tweaks are more about tuning than unlocking speed. For example, you might enable turbo/full power mode if available, or adjust the EY3 display P-settings like P7 for acceleration or P9 for torque on Minimotors controllers.

Generic Chinese Imports (No-Name or Rebranded Models)

Many of these use similar controllers, and some have hidden menu codes. Always search “[Brand/Model] unlock speed” since other owners have often found a sequence (like hold brake and throttle, etc.). If nothing comes up, it likely doesn’t have a simple unlock.

For generics, the advice is usually a controller swap. The stock controller is often the main limiter, and upgrading it (along with the battery) effectively means replacing most of the scooter’s electronics. At that point, you’re no longer “unlocking” speed – you’re rebuilding the scooter.

One thing to watch out for when changing voltage is accessories. Headlights, displays, or other components wired directly to 36V can burn out at 48V unless you replace them or add a DC-DC converter.

What Not To Do

Don’t Bypass or Disable the Battery Management System (BMS)

Some riders think they can get more performance by bypassing the BMS to draw more current or avoid a low-voltage cutoff. This is a terrible idea. The BMS is there to protect the battery from overcurrent and overdischarge, which can cause battery damage or fire.

Don’t Overpower Beyond What Your Frame and Brakes Can Handle.

I harp on this, but it’s important. Going 28 mph (45 km/h) on a scooter designed for 15.5 mph (25 km/h) is risky. The stem tube, folding mechanism, handlebars, wheel hubs, axles, and brake system weren’t built to handle the stress of those higher speeds.

Avoid Dodgy Firmware or Apps from Untrusted Sources.

Custom firmware is great when coming from known communities (ScooterHacking, etc.), but be cautious of random hacks you find on the internet, especially ones that claim extreme gains. If someone offers a firmware that “doubles your speed”, it might as well double the chance of bricking your controller.

Also, some scooter companion apps not made by the manufacturer could potentially steal data or mess up your scooter if they’re not legit. Stick to reputable tools and forums for those (like XiaoFlasher, m365 DownG, ScooterHacking utility, etc., which are widely used).

Legal and Safety Considerations

Local Laws & Speed Limits

Most places have regulations for e-scooters. Commonly, they limit max speed to somewhere between 12–16 mph (20–25 km/h) in Europe, and in many U.S. states, e-scooters are limited to 20 mph. If you modify your scooter to exceed these speeds, you are technically riding an unapproved motor vehicle on public property. This could result in fines if you’re caught or liability issues if you have an accident.

Insurance and Liability

If your modified scooter is not road legal and you hit someone or something, you could be in a sticky situation. Regular personal liability insurance might not cover an accident caused by what is essentially an unregistered vehicle.

Protective Gear

Wear a helmet at the very least. Even at 15 mph, a fall can cause serious head injuries. At 25–30 mph, it can be fatal without one. Since you’re interested in going faster, invest in a good helmet. I personally use a downhill MTB helmet for anything above 20 mph since it offers full face protection.

Gloves are also important. Almost everyone instinctively puts their hands out when falling, and you don’t want to scrape up your palms. Knee and elbow pads are a good idea if you’re pushing high speeds or doing stunts.

FAQs